Elements

Elements

Keste - Kazakh embroidery

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Country :
Kazakhstan
ICH Domain :
Social practices, rituals, festive events Knowledge and practices about nature and the universe Traditional craft skills
Location :
Southern Kazakhstan Region (Shymkent, Turkestan, Arys, Sary-Agash, Kazygurt); Eastern Kazakhstan Region (Oskemen, Semey, Ayagoz, Abay, Tarbagatay, Kursim, Zaysan, Aksuat, Shubartau, Zharman, Kaynar, Shygys, Zaysan, Kokpekty, Katonkaragay).
Year of Designation :
2013
Description :
Keste - traditional Kazakh hand-made embroidery with colored thread and needles or hooks (biz/ilgek/ilme) and hoop (kergish). A Kazakh word keste means 'a scheme or painting'. Direct analogues of colored woolen threads embroidery are found in artifacts of the Berel burial in East Kazakhstan, dating from the IV. BC.
The embroidery is often made on velvet, plush, cloth, felt, velveteen, cotton and silk with woolen, cotton, silky, golden, silver threads and spun gold. Gimp, beads, coral, pearl beads, silver details are frequently applied.
There are about 40 kinds of complex and simple Kazakh embroidery: biz keste - tambour embroidery created with a thin awl-hook; tizbek tigis, shyrash tigis, tyshkan iz, kұs izi (a “bird” seam) shynzhyr, shym keste (tight cover seam without gaps), koykusak, kigash, albyr keste (distichous seam) are the names and versions of tambour embroidery with needle; oraypek/oraypa is a kind of albyr keste; kebeke is a seam similar to Russian embroidery on canvas; zhorme, zhormeme, orys keste, aykas tigis is a cross-stitch embroidery; kereghe bas tigis is a “goat” seam. Baspa is a couched hemstitch technique and shyralzhyn is a simple one. A satin stitch with bedding bedel keste creates relief forms. A columnar seam zhormeu makes zigzag weave. The techniques can be used in combination.
Embroidered products are made for domestic purposes and various ceremonies, which led to the species diversity. In festive men's and women's clothing: shapans, dresses koylek, flared skirts beldemshe, sleeveless jackets beshpet, hats, scarves oramal; in interior items: tablecloths, korzhyn etc.
Meaning :
Keste - in the ancient Turkish language means "painted" - is one of the most striking and distinctive types of Kazakh folk arts and crafts. The art of Kazakh embroidery developed under the conditions of a nomadic way of life and was largely determined by the nature of natural cattle breeding. Embroidery was exclusively a female craft, which was widespread and inherited from mother to daughter. The traditional materials used in embroidery were, first of all, felt, finely made leather and homespun woolen fabrics, as well as velvet, cloth, velveteen, chintz, etc. Embroidery held a dominant position in the decoration of the Kazakh traditional costume (especially women). Keste adorned literally all items and accessories of clothing - from a headdress to shoes. Embroidery remains one of the most popular and popular types of folk art today.
Transmission method :
The transmission of the element mainly takes place in the traditional environment from the master to the student / relative, from generation to generation.
Communities :
Bearers of the element are professional and non-professional masters / craftswomen, teachers of applied art in colleges and universities.
Information source :